The early hours of the morning, when the countryside is still enveloped in silence, are devoted to preparing the milk — the essential ingredient in crafting Parmigiano Reggiano, a cheese revered for its quality and centuries-old tradition.
At the first light of dawn, the cheesemaker arrives at the dairy to receive fresh milk collected the night before, which has been resting in large basins to allow the cream to rise naturally. This evening milk is then combined with richer, fattier morning milk in large copper vats, where the magic of transformation begins. With slow and precise movements, the cheesemaker adds natural rennet and gradually heats the milk, carefully mixing until curds begin to form.
This is followed by intense, delicate steps. With a special tool called a “spino,” the cheesemaker and assistants break the curds into small granules, resembling grains of rice. These are then cooked at a controlled temperature to achieve the perfect consistency. After cooking, the cheese granules settle at the bottom of the vat, where they are collected with a fine cloth, forming the large wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano we know. Each wheel is then wrapped in linen bands and placed in molds, giving them their characteristic round shape.
But the work doesn’t end there: after creating the wheels, the cheesemaker begins the salting process, immersing them in vats of water and salt for several weeks. Then comes the long aging process, during which each wheel is carefully monitored to ensure it develops the intense aromas and complex flavors typical of Parmigiano Reggiano.
“The work of a cheesemaker requires great attention,” says Mattia Rossi, head cheesemaker at Caseificio La Croce. It’s this meticulous care that makes the difference, combined with a dedication to a tradition passed down for generations.